Master class on the pattern of the half-skirt
The choice of fabric
It is usually implied that such a skirt or dress with it should keep its shape well. Ideally, the fabric will have the same properties both along the lobe and the transverse and oblique side.If in some direction it stretches more, then it will sag there. In principle, if there is nothing else at home when sewing with your own hands, then this is not critical.
But if you set yourself such a task, then it is also realistic to accomplish it.
The skirt or dress should end in the place that you want to emphasize. It is better, of course, to do this on the most harmonious part.
If you want to look decent, the shortest length for you will be a mini. It ends at the level of the fingertips, if you put your hands down. Fits surprisinglynot only for models - the half-sun skirt sits well on low girls and those who cannot boast with the length of the legs, since such an end line will visually lengthen them. Reach this skirt can and to the top of the knees.
A skirt from the top of the knees and up to the beginning of the calf will fit well on any type of legs. Be careful not to make the skirt a little lower - you’ll make your legs shorter and thicker with your own hands.
The hem of the maxi-half skirt should start in the middle of the calf, before the ankle begins to expand or even go to the floor. For the legs it will be deadly if you focus on the ankles. The length of the midi and maxi fit slim and long-legged girls.
Skirt with elastic
Let's see how to sew a half-skirt in two versions at once in stages. We start with the layout. For an elastic skirt, you need to know:
- skirt length (DU);
- waist and hip girth (FROM and ABOUT).
This pattern differs from the pattern of a skirt with a zipper in that the neckline needs to be made in the size of the hips, not the waist, so that later you can put it on. You can make the cut even more, then folds and pomp will appear.
Then we make simple mathematical calculations of the required radii for us - waist and hem.In order to find the first one, OB should be added 4–5 cm for convenience and divided by the number “pi” (3.14). We do the same with the second one - divide the DU by 3.14. It also needs to be increased, taking into account allowances and assemblies. Then the fabric must be purchased with a width equal to the second radius + 10 cm.
Calculation for folds
This is a little more difficult - you need to change the radius of the waist, depending on the number and depth of the folds by an amount twice the width of the fold in the depth of the skirt.
Example: we have hips 90 cm and we want to make 5 folds on each side of the skirt, 3 cm wide. Then:
- radius №1 - (90 + 4 + 5x2x3x2): 3.14 = 49 cm
- radius number 2 - 49 cm + DYu / 3.14 + 2 cm (for allowances)
Then we cut the half-skirt on an elastic band with our own hands. Here, too, there may be several options.
With one seam on the back
We fold the fabric in half, with the seamy side up, along the lobe thread. The share thread runs along the factory fabric edge. If your segment is difficult to understand where it is located, check this: the share threads, unlike the cross, are less extensible. Well, at an angle of 45 degrees the fabric stretches best.
From the corner where the two corners are folded together, put 1-1.5 cm on the seam, draw our radii from this line and draw circles using thread and pencil or chalk.
We draw an arc at a distance of about 1 cm from the highest point of the radius, gradually merging with it to the ends of the fabric, and from it we postpone the length of the product.
To avoid errors in the calculation is recommended to check drawn. Take the meter and spread it along the length of the arc. Then multiply by 2, because the fabric is folded. If you get the result close to the desired, you can safely cut the fabric.
With two seams
There is no need to fold the fabric here twice, just with our own hands we draw on the wrong side. For the accuracy of the coincidence of the print on both sides, I recommend to make a pattern from paper and check the pattern on the hem. This option is designed for those whose fabric has the direction of the pattern or pile.
It should be laid out in such a way: it is very convenient and economical to arrange the fabric hem to each other. But this can be done only when the fabric on the dress or skirt does not have a print, lint and is the same on both sides.
Do not forget that the skirt (or dress) we have with a belt! It should also be cut along the common thread, the length is considered to be the same as for the first radius - O + 4-5 cm + seam allowances.We take the width of the strip of fabric twice as much as the height of the girdle, plus 1.5 cm per seam on each side.
Please note that the skirt and the belt are cut along the lobe thread, otherwise the connecting seams will become perpendicular to each other and one part of the skirt will be longer than the other. If the skirt was cut out on the side, we sweep aside the side seams and leave the product hanging for a couple of days. When it drops, you can simply cut off the excess.
So, the sewing process is as follows:
- Swept the seams with their own hands and checked how our skirt sits.
- After that, we grind off the side seam, trying not to stretch the fabric.
- We fold the belt in half and fasten it to the top of the skirt, leaving holes for the elastic, which we then wear there and sew.
- We process and hem down.
A skirt on a yoke, unlike a skirt on an elastic band, will require a zipper - how to sew such a half-sun skirt or a dress with it, we will now understand.
It is important that in this version for sewing the skirt itself we will need a radius taking into account the height of the coquette. It's easy: P1= OT / 3.14 - length of the coquette + a couple of cm for the seams.
The diagram shows that for the skirt on the yoke we will need 4 parts. Since this is in our case the same belt, you need to do it in two layers, but the darts will be only in the upper part. You can change the scheme in accordance with its height, and it is better to take the model of a coquette with a straight skirt pattern.
We sweep, make sure that the half-skirt is sitting correctly or correct the flaws and proceed to sewing:
- First you need to close the darts. We draw a vertical line from top to bottom along it, cut the canvas and, in fact, close it. We glue the parts with interlining, grind off.
- We cut out the skirt in the same way as in the first version, taking into account the yoke, but we insert a zipper - for this we measure 10 cm from the top and sew it in before the yoke is connected to the skirt. Handle and hem down.
- We connect the details - first we grind off the front part of the coquette and the skirt fabric, then the back, we process the right and left seams, sew the remainder of the zipper.
Making a half-sun dress
If you have a task - to combine a skirt on a yoke or an elastic band in a dress, then turn out both parts, put the bodice face down inside the skirt, combine the seams and tuck.
Then sweep, check, then you can grind from the top with two stitches at a distance of 1.2 mm.